Guide-style ATC device (I use a Grigri for belaying during the climb, so the ATC mostly stays on the Oh-Shit-Kit).Personal rappelling prusik (Sterling 13.5-inch Hollow Block).Small locking carabiner (Edelrid Pure Slider).Practice with your own gear before relying on these skills. ![]() This article seeks to fill a gap in current self-rescue literature and provide alternative real-world solutions to self-rescue scenarios where a cordelette may be unavailable. Let’s dive in and learn how to do each skill with the Oh-Shit-Kit, as well as explore some scenarios that show how each skill can be useful.ĭisclaimer: I do not have any AMGA guiding certifications, and these systems can likely be improved upon. These are Transfer of Tension, Improvised Rope Ascension, and Rappelling with Weight (object or person). In all of my climbing and rope-rescue experience, I’ve come to the conclusion that most self-rescue scenarios can be accomplished with just three basic skills, or some combination of them. In addition to minimizing the kit, I also wanted to minimize the complexity of self-rescue knowledge for the average multi-pitch climber. I encourage each person in your party to carry their own! Below is what my personal “Oh-Shit-Kit” looks like. What we ended up with, and what I still carry on my back gear loop every time I multi-pitch climb, was a small locker holding a few items. Combined with multi-pitch staples like alpine draws, a couple of lockers, and a chalk-bag belt made of 6mm cord, I’ve found that this minimalist kit can get you out of almost any sticky situation. No more multiple lengths of cord, multiple prusiks, or even cordelette. We distilled our on-harness rescue kit to just the basic things you’d probably carry anyway. So, one rainy day in the Valley, a friend and I brushed up on self-rescue skills, seeing if we could pull them off with the gear we typically had with us on a standard multi-pitch free route.Īs it turns out, all the scenarios we tried could be improvised with minimal gear. After ditching the cordelette altogether and minimizing my rack for long free routes, I wondered if I could pull off the key skills I thought I knew with the gear I actually carried. I asked myself these same questions during my climbing season last summer in Yosemite Valley. Sure, you might have memorized how to counterbalance rappel from the book, but could you do it at the top of a pitch you’ve just led, without your cordelette and with just the handful of trad draws left on your harness-like in real life? However, as you go through the procedures, you’ll likely notice the swath of extra gear recommended. You could start with a book like Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations. Please note: The customer is 100% responsible for rack assembly and installation.Have you ever wondered if you actually have the skills to get yourself out of a sticky situation while multi-pitch climbing? If you haven’t, you probably should. **Customer is 100% responsible for securing bikes & boats for transportation. *Please allow 48 hours (max.) for Bike purchases Kittery Trading Post is open 9am-7pm, daily. A $0.25 Maine bag fee applies to all curbside pickup orders. Orders not picked up within 30 days will be returned to stock. Kittery Trading Post will not have any liability for any order delays. Kittery Trading Post does not make any guarantee that your order will be available at any specific time. NOTE: Firearms must be picked up and processed inside the store. For documentation and your protection we will record vehicle plate number and date/time of pickup. ![]() Once confirmed, they will place your order in your vehicle's backseat or trunk. (On vehicle or trailer if a Bike, Boat or SUP**). ![]() ![]()
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